Recently Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson and Marcus Palm came back from a successful exploratory expedition in Tibet, where they made a first ascent of Jang Tsang Go (6300 m) in West Nyenchen Tanglha mountain range that is mainly unvisited areaĬerro San Lorenzo: three new routes by Slovenian alpinists in Patagonia Tibet – West Nyenchen Tanglha expedition report It was a sort of extra challenge for us this time – try to make it with a tent for 2 persons We, on the contrary, ceased using portaledge after 'No Fear' on Trango Nameless. Photos Maxim Foygel and Roman GorodischenskiyĪs far as I know, nobody has ever climbed North face of Thalay Sagar without using portaledge. We were looking at the east face of the Grandes Jorasses and we already imagined ourselves climbing there “Nothing happens by chance, everything happens for a reason”, that’s what was on my mind as Roma and I got on the Freboudze glacier in the early summer 2016. New route is called “Ol’cha” in memory of our friend – Olga Goroganina Àâòîð:Alexander Gukov, S.Peterburg Translation: Maria Samsonova, Dmitry Zagorovskiy, Ekaterinburgįirst Winter Ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya, 7105m, via South Face “This is unreal, Sanya. Everything is covered with snow mushrooms and vertical slopes here,” Sergey answered and began to descend. ”it’s Latok I, Sanya,” - Sergey shouted. “Take me,” I shouted to him. Moscow timeĪlexander Gukov. Latok I Impossible is not forever The rescue operation will begin tomorrow at six a.m. Life is going to seep out of him over a long, long time because he is healthy, not injured, and the weather is relatively warm Gukov, what about Gukov? My lively imagination was presenting a picture of him dying there on his ledge. Much later, Vassily Pivtsov and various friends added two more, in 20. On the icy north face were three existing routes, the first by Alexander Kolegov’s team in 1956. The easiest route is Russian 2B or French PD. There are no walk-downs from the summit of Ordzhonikidze. Two new routes on the north face of Ordzhonikidze, 4410 m That's the only possibility to fix a camp in that area so we were forced to fix the tent there We did not expect so heavy snow fall so we left the equipment into a crevass on 5700m. Translation Maria Samsonova, Ekaterinburg How many days can rescue operations last? How adequate are decisions made by the relatives who frequently know nothing or precious little about mountains? The two men team was climbing the infamous 13km long Mazeno Ridge, the lengthiest arete on any 8000 meters peakĪuthor: Major General Khalil Dar, Pakistan Max Ten and I had the latter as our goal for the summer of 2018 Ogre, 7,265m) lie several impressive summits, including Baintha Brakk West (6,660m) and Baintha Brakk West II (6,540m). On the long west-northwest ridge of Baintha Brakk (a.k.a. Three innovative ascents: a famous face on an iconic mountain of theīaintha Brakk WII 6540m, NE Buttress, attempt In 2019 the International Jury of the Piolets d'Or has chosen to honour

What does mean 'Mezzonotte' (Midnight)? Exactly controversial - sun locate in the lowest position, other side of the Earth

What does mean for you ' Mezzogiorno' (Midday)? Is the moment when the sun is in the hiest position onto the sky. Poor weather conditions made us wait fax days more but the sun was expected to shine for almost one week which made us allow to give a proper try in the face Translated from the Russian by Richard SillsĪfter two weeks we were ready to give a try in this big piece of alpinism. Placing protection on such mixed routes is more complicated than on a purely rock or ice routeĪuthor: Sergei Efimov, Yekaterinburg, Russia Snow pitches alternated with sections of rock, often plastered with ice. The weather is devilish and even ordinary basic tasks, such as boiling water or going to urinate, are on the limits of survivalĬlimbing the almost 1500m route up the face took seven days - seven days of constant physical and psychological tension.

Venezuela, Amazonian region, Tepui, AutanaĬerro Torre Expedition of Adventure Team Alpindustria -2005īrakk (Great Tower) B.A.S.E.-climbing expedition, Karakorum, Pakistan Kyzyl-Asker peak (5600m) Southeast face, Kirghizia-China Russian National Alpinist Team New Expedition: K2 (8611m) West Face first climb. Shkhelda-2007 (Caucasus, Russia) Expedition

Big mountain snowboarding photos